As most of you probably know, I’ve been complaining about a vibration in the steering column of my Class A Motorhome – a 1994 Pace Arrow. After the front air bag suspension replacement failed to produce results, it was time for the next step – a brake job.
I jacked the front end up, again. Before removing the front wheels, I concocted a poor man’s dial-indicator (of sorts). Both the front tires and wheels indicated that they were round. Good, potential problem eliminated. However; whilst doing this, it became obvious that the brake rotors were warped. The wheel would spin about 3/4 of a revolution and then stop. It took a fair amount of effort to push the wheel thru the 1/4 rotation where it was binding. I knew what was necessary so I removed the front wheels.
My, what big rotors you have!
Note from JD (07/12/2017): I thought these were huge until I saw what is under Missy, my current motorhome. WOW – That is massive!!
The brake calipers on the Chevrolet P30 chassis are a bit different than I’m familiar. Instead of a few bolts holding them, they fit into a fairly tight “slot” and there is a wedge that holds each in place. Figuring this out required a few minutes of browsing the Internet but it always comes thru – thanks to you guys on the RV forums that have fought this battle and reported your results.
After removing the brake calipers, the rotors turned freely. The wheel bearings felt good. I removed the rotors, cleaned out all the bearing grease, and hauled them down to the auto parts store to be turned. While there, I ordered new brake pads ($54).
A few hours later, the rotors were done and the re-assembly started. I used a c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper and the task went very quickly and easily.
I’d have to say that the hardest part of the whole project was lifting the wheels/tires up onto the studs! Wow – those things are heavy! Obviously, jacking the vehicle just barely high enough to get the wheels on/off is advisable to avoid the height the wheels must be lifted.
I took drove her down the highway and was happy! I could only run up to a little over 60 mph but the vibration was massively improved – dare I say “gone”!?!? Too early to tell, I need to drive on the Interstate at higher speeds. Nonetheless; the indication is that victory is in sight!!
Turning the brake rotors cost $40.00 and new brake pads were $54.00. So, in all, a very inexpensive repair and no where near what a shop would charge for the same service. If you have the tools to jack up the RV, this is most certainly a project that is within the abilities of the average DIY mechanic.
Thanks for posting this. I’m getting ready to do the same on a 94 Cobra Monterey class A I purchased last year. Looks like the shocks would be easy to do at the same time. Lots of other projects to keep me young, but overall I’m happy Rving again.
Hi Jim – you’re welcome! Yes, I completely agree – having lots of projects is VERY good for one’s mind.
Good morning, I am looking for this exact hub & rotor assemby. Please call me at 954-918-3409 if anyone has a lead on one of these. RNW Diesel Truck Repair — REECE
I have a 92 Airstream Land Yacht that is need of new rotors. I’ll be doing this very same project within the next week or two. One question though? Did you have to remove the rotors from the hubs to get them turned? If so, how hard was it to get those 8 large bolts to break loose? I have new rotors I picked up from Rockauto.com so I can change them out if the current rotors are beyand the wear limit. Just wondering if I should just replace the rotors and forget about getting the old ones turned for now.
Hi Julius, I did not remove the hub from the rotor. The guy that was machining them gave them a second look and decided he could do it (and did). If the existing rotors are ok (within spec), I’d say the ‘turn or replace’ decision is economics. If new are already in hand and didn’t cost much more than machining, I’d go with new. Of course, I’m a cheapskate! 🙂
Hi I have a Fleetwood RV. 1995 pace Arrow. Do I have power Brakes. It takes a lought of pressur to stop
Hi Paul, I’m not an expert but I believe PA’s from that time frame were built on either the Chevy P32 chassis or the Ford chassis (not sure which that was). I think there were options but my 94 PA on P-32 had hydraulic disk brakes on all four corners (“power” brakes). I would expect the Ford was the same but again, I don’t know that for certain.
I have a 1999 Allegro with a P-39 chassis. I have new rotors, calipers, and pads. Now, when coming to a normal stop, the abs wants to engage. No abs light on. Do you know about ABS?
Hi Larry. No, sorry, I have no experience with ABS but maybe someone else here will chime in.
Nice article… I have a 94 p30 School Bus that we converted… the bus pulls hard to the right when the brakes are pressed, and after 5-6 miles the left front tire starts to make squeaking sounds, and also gets super hot and smokes (believe the brake pads melting was part of it).
So – I replaced both front calipers and brake pads – and tested again. Found the same issue of pulling hard to the right and squeaking, heat and bad smell (obviously – my brake pads burning up)
So then – decided should replace or re-pack bearings – and replaced the front left rotor – along with new brake pads again.
The squeaking seems to have stopped – but the heat and smell of burnt brake pads continue…. as well as pulling to the right when we brake.
Seems as if the front left / driver side caliper is always partially engaged… at least I assume and why it seems to heat up (when shot with digital thermometer 0it was 400 degrees versus like 100 on the passenger side)
But still don’t understand why it is pulling when braking…. any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hi Ted, I’m no expert but sounds to me like your caliper is messed up. Either replace it or rebuild (if possible). I can imagine one of the pistons being unable to retract into the bore when the pressure is released. This would keep the pad rubbing which would explain the heat and increased braking/pull to one side.
Thank you – looking at that today
Turned out to be a faulty hose to the caliper
Great find Ted – well done!! These things are never fun to track down but once fixed, what a relief!! 🙂
Hello-
I have a 1993 Winnebago brave 32.
I am trying to find where I can order brakes to replace on it, any ideas?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Christal. You’ll have to have the chassis information. With that, most automotive parts stores will be able to help you out.
Hi I am working on a 1982 Chevy p30 motorhome and need to find a front driver side rotor and hub it has five lugs on it can’t a find any like the on on the motorhome
Hi Robert. I don’t recall the details now but I remember there being a lot of confusion between the P30 and P32 chassis. You might try looking at the same part for a P32.
What special socket do you need (part number please) to pull rear brake rotor off of a chevy Coronado pace arrow 1994? Thank you