Carbon Fiber Road Bike

If you’ve been reading this blog for any length of time you know that I am relatively new to the world of road cycling.  If my memory serves, it was nearly two and a half years ago that I started riding an old mountain bike on the road.  Several months later, I purchased a much better used mountain bike on Craigslist. About a year ago, I purchased a used Giant OCR 3 aluminum road bike on Craigslist.  In all this time, I’ve put a good number of miles on these bikes.  Last year I rode approximately 2200 miles – not a world record or anything but pretty good for a fat boy like me.  Yeah, losing weight and getting healthy has been my goal.  I was surprised when I fell in love with cycling regardless of the health benefits.  I promised to treat myself to a new road bike when I reached 200 pounds.  I’m not there yet, I’m riding as much as ever and eating as little as ever – I seem to be stuck on a plateau. I’ve lost sixty pounds and that’s great but I need some motivation.   So, I started considering my options for a new bike.

Oh, perhaps the most important point, my Giant isn’t a great fit.  I’ve got it pretty close and I’m comfortable enough over 30 miles but then I start noticing the problem areas. I knew I could do better and probably needed to in order to spend more time riding.  Slightly less important, I constantly hear about how much of the road carbon bikes soak up.  I ride rural roads and over a lot of road cracks, expansion joints, railroad tracks, etc..  My existing aluminum bike occasionally leaves my hands buzzing after a rough ride.  I would like to try carbon to see if this “harshness” is smoothed out somewhat.  This would also help with longer rides.

So there you have it – I needed a jolt of motivation and wanted a better fit/more comfortable ride.

I did a fair amount of online searching for Carbon Fiber frames. There are many options on Amazon and eBay. I eventually decided on VeloBuild.com, mostly for two reasons.  The website includes a forum on which much information is listed with buyers experiences and reviews and this is all they do (bike parts).  These things made me feel more comfortable and like I would get a product that I liked.  Their prices are very good so the premium for this feeling was quite minimal.  Prior to ordering, Chris at VeloBuild answered all of my email questions quickly and completely.  Of course, just walking into the local bike shop would have also worked and eliminated all the mystery/concerns but that just isn’t me (cheapskate and DIY’er).

So, I placed my order:
VB-R-028 frame, fork, and seat post
• Shimano 105 group set (the new 2014 5800 model) with compact gearing
• Two BR-006 carbon fiber bottle cages
• ST-001 100mm carbon fiber stem.

From Nashbar, I ordered:
• Shimano 105 pedals
• Duro-Pro 700C x 25mm tires
• Self-sealing tubes
• Cables
• Stem spaces
• Bar tape

From diy-bike (an eBay seller), I ordered a 38mm carbon fiber 700C wheelset.

All of this combined with the carbon fiber handle bar mentioned here, all the parts necessary for a really swell new bike were on their way.

The wheelset was the first thing to arrive.  The wheels were nicely packed in a box obviously intended for shipping wheels – very nice and very well protected.  My reaction? Wow!  The wheels look great and they are SO LIGHT!  Very, very impressive.

As soon as the tires and tubes arrived, I mounted them to the wheels.  I watched a few YouTube videos on mounting tires to carbon wheels (clinchers) and there isn’t any difference than mounting to an alloy wheel.  As always, some care is necessary to avoid pinching the tube or scratching the wheel.  Using plastic tire levers is critical, in my opinion.  Once all together – they look amazing.  I am super stocked to ride on them!

Many people wonder about shipping times from China.  I have only two experiences with EMS – the wheels and frame.  In both cases, the box arrived one week to the day after I was told that it had been shipped.  Thank you shipping guys and US Customs.

I refreshed the tracking information every 29 seconds for three days.  Finally, the mailman pulled up and had a big box for me!!  I hugged him and told him how much I loved him!!  Apparently he doesn’t get that reaction often – he left but seemed to be keeping a close eye on me as he drove away.

VeloBuild packed the group, frame, fork, post, and stem really, really well.  The only thing that was odd is that the headset parts were just bouncing around inside the box.  I’m going to give VeloBuild the benefit of the doubt and guess that customs did this.  In any case, all the parts were there and there was no damage so my happy dance continued.

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

Unpacking all the parts was like Christmas in July!  Everything looked wonderful and the carbon parts were incredibly light.  Even better, all the parts were there!  I’m one of those little boys that likes to unpack everything on Christmas morning, play with it all, and by evening wonder what there is to do.  So, of course, I immediately set to work assembling the bike.

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

The first thing I did was clean the frame threads at the bottom bracket.  There was a small bit of junk in them but not much.

Next was trimming the fork steerer tube. Since I was unsure how the bike would fit, I elected to trim it rather long and fine tune later.  I used the steel hose clamp trick (for a straight cut) and a 32 tpi hacksaw.  This went very smoothly, as expected, and I cleaned up the cut with a fine file.

From here on out, it was simply a matter of bolting parts onto the frame.  Everything went on very smoothly and there were no surprises.  One item of note, I had never installed a brand new chain without having the old one to measure first.  It seemed logical to mark how much chain was necessary for the highest gear so that’s what I did. However; after doing so, I found that the chain was still too long and the rear derailleur could not take up all the slack so I took out three more links.  I ordered/installed a SRAM PC-1130 chain with their Powerlock link which makes maintenance so much easier!

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

I am terrible at tuning the derailleurs – I guess this is just something I have not done enough. I spent a lot of time trying to get them right and they seem to be ok but not perfect.  I’m sure cable will stretch and things will settle in during the first fifty miles so I won’t be too particular to start.

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

Carbon wheels use a “special” brake pad and the wheels that I purchased came with a set.  Removing the pads that came on the Shimano 105 brakes was quick and easy but (apparently) an important thing to remember.  I was warned to make sure the pads stay clean as bits of grit and/or metal will damage the wheel.

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

From the bike forums, I learned that carbon parts are very sensitive to over-torqueing and easy to damage.  To avoid this, I purchased a small, 1/4″ drive torque wrench and the appropriate size metric hex socket drivers.  Using this tool made me feel much better and seemed to work since I didn’t strip out anything or ruin any parts!  Yay!

Several weeks ago I decided to cover the areas of the frame that are subject to chips with the clear 3M tape that they use on the front of cars to prevent rock chips.  I ordered a small roll of the 8 mil stuff from eBay.  I should have applied this tape BEFORE bolting all the components on but live and learn.  I carefully measured and cut pieces for the downtube, seattube, and chainstay on the drive side.  Sticking them in place was fairly easy as the 3M tape is pretty forgiving.  Two other small strips were applied where the brake cable housing can rub on the front of the head tube and also where the speed sensor is zip-tied to the chain stay (looks better back there than up on the fork/front wheel).

In a few short hours, the bike was together and looked FANTASTIC!  Of course, I was a bit surprised by the weight – or lack of it.  Just to be sure I wasn’t imagining it, I picked up my old Giant OCR 3 aluminum bike that I’ve been riding in one hand and this carbon bike in the other. WOW – there was a HUGE difference!!  I plopped her on my very unscientific bathroom scale and saw 18.5 lbs.

carbon fiber road bike cycling bicycle VeloBuild

I did a basic fit, took her outside, and rode around the block while messing with all the typical adjustments.  By the end of a couple laps, she was feeling very good!

I have very little experience on different road bikes. In fact, my Giant OCR 3 is it.  I’d love to compare this to a dozen other top bikes but I can’t.  I would say the Giant is lively – it likes to accelerate and is very spirited in the corners.  The R-028 has left my sensations a bit confused.  It is so light that it feels wrong. Hopefully the rain will subside, I’ll get some miles under the wheels of this beauty, and have a useful review in the very near future!

Ha – a cliff hanger!

 

 

Carbon Fiber Handlebar

There aren’t too many bike parts that aren’t available in carbon fiber these days.  I’ve generally looked at carbon fiber parts as being for racers and weight-weenies.  I’ll probably never race and still have dozens of pounds to lose off my butt before I start nit-picking my bike for ounces.  However; I was talking to a cycling friend recently about hand comfort and he suggested that a carbon fiber bar is very comfortable and provides a degree of shock absorption – thus making the ride a bit easier on ones hands and wrists. Most of my rides are on rural and small town roads and there are many cracks and bumps everywhere I ride. I decided to put this theory to the test.

I found a reasonably priced carbon fiber bar on eBay and clicked purchase.  This was not a name brand bar, rather a Chinese part.  There is a lot of talk about these products in the forums.  Like everything, lots of disinformation. For my purposes, I believe these products are acceptable and certainly fit my wallet (where the name brand products often do not). A few weeks later, the box was in my hands.

The first thing to note, the box didn’t weigh anything.  After removing the bar from the box, I found that the tiny amount of weight that I had felt was cardboard!  The bar was incredibly light!!  It didn’t quite float but almost.

Carbon Fiber Handlebar bar Bike Bicycle Cycling

I installed the bar without bar tape and went for a ride.  The result was VERY interesting!  For the first ten miles I had to keep looking at my front tire as I thought I had a puncture.  You know how that feels?  The tire is losing pressure and it is absorbing a lot of the harshness of the road, right?  Well, I did not have a puncture – the tire was fine.  It finally occurred to me that this was the bar working.  The bike still handled/performed as it always had but some of the harshness of the road was being absorbed and was not being transmitted to my hands.  I loved it!

Carbon Fiber Handlebar bar Bike Bicycle Cycling

Obviously, the cracks and bumps are still felt. The difference is very subtle, it is that just a reduced bit of harshness or sharpness – the carbon fiber bar at work!!  Keep in mind, I still had not even wrapped the bar with tape.

I now have about a hundred miles with the new bar and really like it!  In addition to the feel, it also has a flatter “aero” top as well as the flattened top at the bend. Both of these positions are very comfortable with this bar.  It’ll be really swell when I finally get it taped!

Bike Light

I’ve been riding on rural and small town roads for several years now with pretty good success.  I haven’t been hit!!  That is not to say that there are not some real bone-headed drivers – there most certainly are plenty of those.

I bought a cheap red light a long time ago and only used it occasionally until this spring.  I then started trying to use it every ride. I’ve probably achieved 80-90% use.  The light is far from bright but is something – which is better than nothing.

This spring I’ve had a couple heart skipping moments with cars attempting to re-arrange my body parts and decided that a front and rear light set may help.  Researching this, I found that there are many good possibilities.  I eventually decided on the “Knog Blinder 4″ set and purchased from Amazon for about sixty bucks.

Cycling Bike Bicycle Light LED USB

The Knog Blinder 4 LED light set is USB rechargeable. This was important to me as paying for new batteries all the time is very annoying.  Charge me up front for a rechargeable please!  Each light has four LED’s. The front white light produces 80 lumens, the rear red light 44 lumens.  I’m not much of a lumenary expert but know that both of these lights seem mighty bright – actually kinda painful to look directly at them. They each have a nice integrated rubber strap and lever action clip.  They fit very nicely and seem secure.  The front light just barely fits on my carbon aero bar so be aware of that.

Cycling Bike Bicycle Light LED USB

I’ve been riding with these lights for about a week.  I’m not actually sure if they make a difference or not.  I cannot imagine an oncoming vehicle cannot see them.  If success is measured by not being hit by a car, they are working – knock on wood.  I have used them only in blinking mode and have not ridden at night with them.  In ‘full on’ mode (not blinking) the front white light produces a lot of light but it is somewhat dispersed so I’m not sure that it would be an ideal light to illuminate the path ahead (think flood light versus spot light).

Overall, the Knog Blinder lights seem like a pretty good deal, I am happy.

Cycling Motivation?

My cycling really took a hit over the winter.  I had a really tough time getting out and riding.  I spent lots of hours on the trainer but that doesn’t seem to count.

Even when good weather arrived, I seemed to struggle.  I wanted to ride, I did ride, but my mileage and time in the saddle was just kinda poor.  I had a couple one hundred mile weeks but more often they were in the 50′s. Of course, business travel got in the way.

So, I rededicated myself. Basically, I had a stern discussion with myself about priorities and the importance of continuing to get fit – for myself.  Thankfully, I was in complete agreement with myself and things started to look up.  My attitude was better and my time on the road has significantly picked up.  I did one hundred and fifteen miles last week!!

rechargeable light set to make me feel more comfortable on the road with traffic during the early morning hours. A new carbon handlebar and new brake/shifters.  The two latter items are in hopes of resolving some hand soreness that I’ve been experiencing.  A friend reported to me how comfortable carbon bars can be (absorbing vibration/shock) and my existing hoods do not fit my hands well.  Cycling Bike Bicycle Carbon Fiber Bar DropI’m hoping that a new level of comfort will spur me on to two-hundred and fifty mile weeks!!  Finally, a carbon wheelset – no, not the high-end, multi-thousand dollar option but the relatively cheap Chinese option.  Since a new ultra-comfort carbon bike is not in the budget, I thought perhaps these wheels would soften the ride of my existing Giant OCR-3 and make me twenty miles per hour faster.  We shall see soon enough!

I also concluded that better winter clothing may help my winter riding.  So, this fall I am going to gear up and attempt to keep the activity level up once the temperatures come down.

Busy Summer

What a busy summer!  I am so thankful!

patienceMany things have been happening and my posts here have really taken a hit.  Fear not!  Another flying/camping trip to the Idaho backcountry is in the books and I’m working on the story. I’ve made several trips in the motorhome and gathered a handful of tips to share as a result. And, of course, the cycling is in full swing which means new equipment to experiment with, results to share, and weight loss!!  Yay!   Several business trips to Miami, Seattle, and Portland, OR have sucked up all my writing time but resulted in some fun excursions.

I’ll get it all posted soon – apologies for the delay.

Fat Clothes

I recently read a pretty good book titled “The Happiness Project” by Gretchen Rubin.  I enjoyed this book and picked up a bunch of really good ideas from it.

One of those ideas is the value of decluttering our lives and the freeing effect that has on us.

SmileyOnBeachxSo, this past weekend I was staring at my closet full of clothes that I never wear and decided that today was the day to take a whack at decluttering.

I started with the clothes that I will never wear because they are dorky looking.  Easy.

Next I moved to the clothes that were XXL or larger.  They all look silly on my now (like wearing a tent) and I vow never to be larger enough again for them to fit.

Finally, I made a pass pulling out the clothes that may fit but just aren’t really me anymore.

Done!  A closet that is now only about half full a bunch of spare clothes hangers, and a big pile of clothes on the floor!

I was on such a good roll, I also attacked by dressers.  I’m not exactly sure how a person can collect DOZENS of t-shirts but I have managed to do it.  These are not the ‘under a good shirt t-shirt’ but the everyday wear type of t-shirt.  I followed about the same approach, too dorky, too big, too weird – all went into the ‘to go’ pile.

Thumbs_21When it was all said and done, I had two very large black garbage sacks full of clothes.  A quick trip to Goodwill and they were out of my hair.

Gretchen was right!  Walking into my closest the last few mornings has been far less stressful than it was previously – thanks Gretchen!

Trimetric Battery Monitor

While researching solar power on the Internet, one cannot miss the many references to the Trimetric Battery Monitor.  Many, many people love this monitor.  So, I followed their lead and purchased one too.  I got the RV-2030 model.

Trimetric Battery Monitor

Why??  Well, that is the question I had prior to spending ten days boondocking with solar only.  As a result of that experiment, I began to understand how nice/convenient it would be to know what is happening with your battery bank.  Required? No, it is not. However; one does run the risk of damaging the batteries (over-depleting) and is constantly wondering what state things are in.  I decided that knowing exactly what was going on with my 12 volt electrical system would be very beneficial, provide a great deal of peace of mind, and would be well worth the two-hundred dollars that the Trimetric battery monitor costs.

Installing the Trimetric Battery Monitor is pretty simple but that doesn’t mean that some effort is not required.  In my case, I needed to install a 500 amp shunt at the battery bank and then run the cables.

The shunt is pretty easy. You simply need a place to mount the shunt and the correct cables to connect it to the battery.  For this, I had to make one very short length of cable.

The cable from the shunt to the Trimetric monitor is a not so easy – at least in my case.  I wanted to follow the existing electrical wiring and not punch a new hole anywhere.  This required a run from the battery bank in the very front of Shaneeda, to the rear axle, up thru the floor, and then forward to my “electric panel” location.  I ordered a 50′ cable and just barely had enough.

Of course, while I was at it… I also ran a battery voltage sense cable and battery temperature cable to the MorningStar MPPT solar charge controller. These two add-on’s would allow the charge controller to do a better job by having an accurate  sense of the battery voltage and temperature.

The Trimetric monitor has a bunch of features. Initially, it is setup to provide just the basics and only requires setting three values.  The monitor is very capable is this mode only.  Configuring the monitor requires a read or two of manual as everything is done with just two buttons.  It is certainly not difficult – just read the manual.

I have thoroughly enjoyed playing with this new tool.  It is fun to run various electrical components after dark and be able to see the amperage being drawn and the battery ‘percent full’ change.  I’ve drawn the house batteries down to the 80% level overnight. Believe it or not, this takes a great deal of effort.  I am entirely LED equipped so leaving all lights on doesn’t draw much power, so, I have to use things like fans, incandescent lights, and a small inverter.  Watching the voltage climb and the battery ‘percent full’ value climb as the sun rises is very neat!  The battery bank is full by 09:30 AM and I can burn as much electricity as I like.  That is a great feeling.

Energy Audit – Watt For?

Like nearly everything else in life, it seems there are an infinite number of ways to approach the use of solar electric for a boat or motorhome.  In my case, my motorhome has a big 7500 watt generator and it is always available.  Therefore; it is not critical that I have sufficient solar power to provide for all of my needs.  That said; I really prefer not to run the generator simply because it is noisy and I really enjoy being out in nature and hearing only nature. My real limitations are budget and roof space on which solar panels can be mounted.  With that in mind, I could purchase as much solar as I can afford and/or will fit.

Of course, some people use their generator for air conditioning.  It is very unlikely that one could put a solar and battery system on a motorhome that was sufficient to run air conditioning.  So, why have a solar system if running the generator six or more hours per day is the norm?  I dunno, can’t think of one.  In my case, I live in the west so when it gets hot, I go up (altitude) to the cool air. I’ve ran my air conditioner while traveling (using the generator) but have never actually used it while parking camping.

As you can see, your use and requirements/limitations may be entirely different than others and that’s ok. We do not live in a one size fits all world.

If you’ve determined that a solar system fits into your style of use/camping, a good next step is an energy audit (energy budget, electricity budget, etc…) to determine how much electricity you use during an average day.  Doing this is not hard but you have to it in watt hours per day.  This means that you must convert each devices input to watts and then multiply by the number of hours that it is in use.

Ohms Law Watt Amp VoltThis (math) is where people often begin getting lost.  Trust me, this is not a big deal – it only requires some understanding of some basic electrical concepts.  I won’t go into much detail as there are a bunch of web sites that focus on this.  A Watt is simply a standard electrical unit of measure and it does not care about voltage. Converting to watts is easy because the calculation is W = V * A (watts = volts * amps).  So, 1 amp at 12 volts = 12 watts.  1 amp at 110 volts = 110 watts.  Thus; if a device consumes 50 watts/hour (per hour is the standard) and you use it for 4 hours, it will consume 200 watts (50 watts x 4 hours).

One can usually read the power consumption on the label of most devices. It is worth noting that most devices list their worst case condition and not their typical condition. For example, an electric motor may consume a lot of amperage when it is starting but once running it drops way down to perhaps 25% of the startup amperage. A great option to actually measure the consumption of a 110 volt device is the Killawatt device. It plugs in between the device and power outlet and reports the actual use. Sometimes measuring is easy, sometimes an educated guess is required.

Once all this data is in hand, you simply add up the energy consumption for a day. You can pick whatever case you are comfortable with – I went with worst case (most energy used).  For example, I may go for a month without turning on the television but I included it and the satellite receiver in my energy audit.

Refrigerator (on gas): 12 watts x 24 hours = 288
CPAP: 12 watts x 8 hours = 96
LED Lights: 12 watts x 4 hours = 48
LED TV: 50 watts x 4 hours = 200
Satellite Receiver: 50 watts x 4 hours = 200
Stereo: 12 watts x 4 hours = 48
Laptop: 75 watts x 8 hours = 600
Monitor: 100 watts x 4 hours = 400
Water Pump: 60 watts x .5 hour = 30
Misc. (LP Gas Detector, clocks, etc…) : 25 watts x 4 hours = 100

2010 watts/day – worst case.

A more typical day would look like the following:

Refrigerator (on gas): 12 watts x 24 hours = 288
CPAP: 12 watts x 8 hours = 96
LED Lights: 12 watts x 2 hours = 24
Laptop: 75 watts x 4 hours = 300
Water Pump: 60 watts x .5 hour = 30
Misc.: 12 watts x 4 hours = 48

800 watts/day – typical case. Assuming I’m off by 50%, let’s call it an even 1200 watts per day.

These values (1200 – 2000 watts per day) framed the size of the solar system that I would need to completely power my rig from solar.  But, given my limited space for panels and budget, this did not dictate the sizing.

Obviously, the sun does not shine all the time.  I live in the southwest were it shines a lot but it still sets in the evening, sadly.  A rough rule of thumb is to expect 5 hours of charging from your system.  This varies by location and time of year but is a reasonable place to start.

Six Volt Golf Cart Battery ReplacementTo generate 2000 watts of electricity during a 5 hour day, I would need 400 watts worth of solar panels (PV). However; one doesn’t get full rated output from the panels all the time.  One might think that by installing 650 watts of solar panel capacity, in the best case possible, I could expect about 3250 watts of electricity each day (650 watts x 5 hours = 3250 total watts). However; that simply isn’t real.  How does one deal with this?  Well, I don’t know what the experts do but I can tell you what I did. I took some guesses based on my location, expected usage, and data reported by others.  I think something along the lines of 70% rated power from the panels is more likely given shading, angles, and wiring/conversion loses.  Then toss in the fact that the panels produce less power early in the morning and late in the day and you are probably down around 50% or less for that five hours each day.  So, I’m guessing that about 1600 watts per day would be a good and reasonable expectation.  One could argue that here in the southwest, in the middle of the summer, the PV panels will be producing output far more than 5 hours per day. I suspect you are right.  At this time of year (April), mine seem to start producing pretty early (8:30am) and don’t stop until pretty late (7:00pm). Let’s say 10 hours.  That represents a pretty fantastic opportunity for producing electricity.  However; it is best case and not what I am going to expect as being typical.  If you are an optimist, you may go with that number but I suspect you might be disappointed.

Another consideration is the size of your battery bank (total amp hours).  Mine is relatively small. Some people can use battery for two-three days without running the batteries too low (there is a healthy limit you know).  I cannot.  On the days that is cloudy, I’m parked in the shade, and/or consuming lots of electricity; I will simply need to start my generator.  That is a nice option that not everyone has.

Of course, increasing the capacity of my battery bank is on the list!

Solar Success

The initial run with the new solar power system has been a success!

To start the trip, I was faced with 25 mph headwind on the Interstate.  Even with the headwind, gusts of wind, and semi’s passing and buffeting Shaneeda; the PV panels stayed firmly attached to the roof.

Heart Love Caring ConcernI found a nice spot at the Bluewater State Park where the array would not be shaded.  The solar charging system performed flawlessly and I was never short of power.

After about a week, I moved to a boondocking site in Cibola National Forest south of Fort Wingate, NM.  Here, there was some shading from trees.  Once again, I was never short of power.

It is now very clear to me why a battery monitor is important.  Without it, you have only a vague idea of what is happening. Additionally, a solar charge controller monitor (meter or panel) would also help to know exactly what the solar array is doing. So, both of these are on my list.

I am really happy!

Basement Doors

When I purchased Shaneeda, several of her basement doors were in bad shape.

In RV/motorhome parlance, the basement doors cover the storage area under the living space. These basement doors consist of an aluminum frame made of angle, channel, and such and an aluminum sheet “cover” or face.  The face had come loose on most of the them.  The handle/lock mechanism is mounted in the face and attaches to the latches on the frame.  That was about all that was holding several of them together.

To repair, I used Gorilla glue. I applied some between each face and frame and used several clamps to hold it all together.  This is worked well on all the doors but one.

The one trouble basement door had been “repaired” by the previous owner.  Sadly, the job wasn’t all that great.  The remains of whatever glue was used was all over the place and preventing the face from making good contact with the frame.  So, a better repair was necessary.

I removed the face entirely from the frame and then proceeded to thoroughly clean both parts.  This involved a LOT of chipping and scraping of the old material.  I used a combination of tools – putty knives, utility knife, screwdriver, pocket knife, etc… Of course, not damaging the exterior finish has to be a priority. Once it was finally clean, I used rubbing alcohol to prep for some new adhesive.

1994 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Motorhome RV Class AThe Gorilla glue had worked well for me and I like the fact that it expands a little bit to fill voids.  However; I was out.  I did have a tube of 5 minute epoxy so I gave that a shot.

Of course, five minutes is not very long to apply, properly align the face on the frame, and get all the clamps attached.  Nonetheless, I was reasonably successful.

So, the frame is re-attached and looks pretty good.  However; I am not sure that the epoxy will be a good solution as it feels very rigid.  When I move the door, I can hear some small cracking sounds.  I suspect the epoxy will fail in short order and I’ll have to repeat the process using Gorilla glue.

Oh well, live and learn!